Building the 18th century Halter
            Halters are seldom depicted in contemporary paintings of the Spanish Colonial frontier, but the military used halters extensively, and as every horseman knows they are indispensable. The 18th century halter is not as substantial as a later period military halter, the design of which is still used today.
            Below is a design I used to create a halter. This halter, like most military halters, is a bit oversized. If you have your own horse you might wish to build it to fit.  

• Use 1.25 in wide straps.
• Use a solid brass buckle or iron in 1.25. (I prefer an 18th century buckle, but in this example I have used a Tandy buckle. Heel bar buckles and halter buckles are close. Caution: roller buckles are too late for the period).
• The nose band is stitched into a loop, 42.5” finished. The unfinished strap is 45”. I stitched a 2” overlap. Run the leather through a keeper, and then a hefty brass or iron ring (available at ACE) and then back through the keeper. Stitch the loop. The keeper will serve to tighten the nose band if it is too large for the horse.
• The crown strap is 54” unfinished, and 51.5” finished. The buckle is stitched into the leather with a 2” overlap. The crown strap is then run through the keeper, through the ring and then through the keeper. The keeper will serve to tighten the strap if it is too large for the horse.
• The cheek pieces are set at a slight upward angle from the nose band to the crown strap. The cheek pieces are 10” long at the top of the diagonal edge. Stitch a square pattern. 
• The lead rope should be of leather or sisal.

Spanish Colonial Knife Sheath 
Here is a brief 'how-to' on the subject of the Belduque (Spanish fighting knife) sheath. The design for this sheath is based on examples out of Baja California.  (Many thanks to John G. for his research as well as his patience in mentoring me with historical blacksmithing and leather-work.)
 
First, you'll need a Belduque or other belt knife. Keep in mind the weight of the finished project.  If you wear it tied in with your bota garter, it will drag your botas down, which could trip you up and it gets uncomfortable! (Speaking from experience here...)

Should you choose to wear it on your waist under a belt or sash, you'll find it "rides" better and it can be quickly adjusted, with a minimum of fuss. (Plus, if it's worn around your waist, you can 'strike a pose' and tap your fingertips on the hilts of the knife, bringing attention to your handiwork, without being too obvious...)
 
You'll need a few basic tools for leather-work;
Scissors/shears,  leather needle, awl, waxed linen thread, 3 clothes pins, (or binder clips), pencil and graph paper for a pattern, as well as a dish with warm water and some Olive Oil.  (Also, a 1"X6"X 12" piece of wood for a work surface -- punching the leather with the awl, etc. will be helpful.)
Choose the leather you'll use; it doesn't have to be thick/heavy, it can be fairly thin, just 'stiff' enough to hold its' shape once it's being dampened/worked. Make certain the piece of leather is large enough to 'wrap around' the blade keeping a "seam allowance" for around the grips as well.
 
Take the graph paper and lay the knife centered, leaving space 'above' the end of the grips and a bit 'below'. (See photographs)  Trace out a basic shape for the sheath -- staying oversized (the seam allowance) and cut out the pattern, making certain the "keeper'' tab  is part of the pattern.  Now is also a good time to choose the 'protector' piece, which will be sewn on after the main sheath is completed. It should be of slightly 'heavier' leather because it is going to be rubbing against your clothing/sash and protecting you from the sharp point of the knife as you slide it back into the sheath.
 
{Note: sometimes the sheaths are made "rough-out", some "smooth-out".  I tend to make them "rough-out" so the 'keeper tab' will be "smooth-out" when folded over; which then gives you some space for 'stamping' or cutting  scalloped edges, etc.  (See photographs.) The 'protector' is "smooth" side out, or put another way; "rough" against your body.}
 
Wrap the paper pattern around the knife, don't try and hold it closed, just tape the edges together and fold over the 'keeper' tab.  If you've left sufficient 'seam allowance' there should be roughly 1/4" to 3/8" too much -- that's good, as you're including a small amount of 'waste' which will folded over to protect the seam, or be cut away from the seam once sewn.  
 
If you're satisfied with the basic shape/fit, de-tape the pattern and fold flat on the "smooth side" of the leather  chosen for the sheath. (If you cut the pattern too narrow, just tape the paper back together and re-cut, take your time; make sure you like the fit!) Mark a pencil line on the ''smooth side'' around the pattern, stay close, but a little over-sized is still alright. On this design, the seam runs down the "back" against your leg/body.
Note:  Keep the pattern, in case you make another sheath -- or to recall what you did last time to enable a fresh design for the next project.
 
Cut out leather, fold around knife (checking fit/length); get all the leather working tools together and find a comfortable well-lit work space.
 
Assembly should go fairly easily; with the warm water, dampen down the leather, wrap around the blade and pinch with the clothes pins or binder clips. Also, dampen the fold point on the "keeper" and fold it over, the weight of the leather and binder clips will keep it flat against the sheath.  Let all the dampened leather dry, about an hour, possibly two. (This should not be enough time to cause rust on the blade, however, if you are concerned, wrap the blade with waxed paper to prevent rust.) When dry, keeping the seam allowance pinched together, use awl to punch holes as close to the sheath as possible, using the leather needle and waxed linen thread, sew a "hidden" stitch; keeping the stitches about 1/8" apart.
Sew from the bottom up toward the top, stopping about 2" down from the top. Now place the "protector" piece where you like it and mark where the stitches will be punched to sew it in place.
 
Stitch in the "protector" and finish sewing the body of the sheath, keeping stitches hidden and tuck in thread ends. If the leather is dry and stitched well, it should hold it's shape when the blade is removed. Fold the 'left over' leather and dampen it further to flatten it; or, trim away the extra seam-allowance, but no too close to the stitching as this will weaken the leather.   
You could take this opportunity to trace a design on the "keeper" and "protector" tabs  and do all the 'punching' or edging.  (Floral designs, geometric patterns, etc. research historic patterns, or just leave it 'blank')
 
The final step is to dab on the Olive Oil, this will seep into your designs on the 'tabs' which will highlight the designs as well as darken and preserve the leather.  Let dry, about an hour and rub down with a rag. 
 
That's it. If, over time, the leather begins to dry out, just dab on a little more olive oil.

Lee Peterman
Alta California